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yielding, and plastic.

UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE.

REUBEN o. RUTHERFORD, or NEW YORK, N. Y. I

METHOD OF RESTORlNG FULLED WOQLE N FABRICS TO THEIR ORIGINAL DIMENSIONS.

SPEGI'EIGATION' forming' part of Letters Patent No. 398,847, dated March 5, 1889.

Application filed September 28, 1887.

Serial Nu, 250,906, on Specimclls.)

permanent till the fabric is again subjected to To aZZ whom it may concern:

Be itknown that I, REUBEN G. RUTHERFORD, of the city, county, and State of New York, have invented a new and Improved Method of Restoring Fulled WVoolen Fabrics to Their Original Dimensions, of which the following is a full, clear, and exact description.

The object of my invention is to restore shrunken or fulled woolen fabrics to their original dimensions and texture.

It is well known that the value of woven, knit, or felted woolen fabrics is greatly affected by their liability to full or shrink when saturated with moisture, and that this shrinkage is greatly exaggerated by manipulationincreasing the thickness of the fabric and reducing its other dimensions. My improved process is designed to restore fnlled goods of this description. to their original dimensions, or, if desirable, to increase their length and width at the expense of the thickness. The surface of the woolen fibers is in the form of imbricated scales, acting like barbs in the movement of the fibers upon one another. The fibers are also wavy or kinky, the finer grades tending to the spiral form. Shrinkage is due to one or both of these factorsthe scales and kinks. Moisture or manipulation (especially both) contracts the kinks and moves the fibers readily in the direction of the base of their scales, which interlock to prevent movement in the opposite direction. EX- periment shows that brief exposure of woolen fiber to the action of steam or water at the boiling-point has no injurious effect upon the fiber or fabric. It is well known that the temperature of unconfined steam cannot be raised above that of the boiling-point of water. Exposed to the action of steam or waterheated to the boiling-point all keratinous substancesas horn, hoof, hair, and wool-become soft,

Thus heated by unconfined steam, the softened fibers may be straightened by tension, the resistance of the interlocked scales (or barbs) overcome and bent back, thus permitting the fibers to slip upon one another, and so increasing their united length. Distention of the fabric at too low a temperature (which must be within its elastic limit or result in rupture) is followed by partial or complete recoil. Distention under the other conditions described above is the fulling or shrinking influences, when it will contract as before, showing that the integrity of the fabric and fiber remains intact under the process. In fact, the fabric is softer, smoother, more silky in appearance, and just as pliable and elastic as before the treatment.

In carrying out my invention I submit the fulled goods to a moistheat at or above the ing the goods in the direction required to restore them to their original dimensions. The very high temperature softens the, fibers of the wool, so that as the garment or piece is stretched the kinks and imbrications of the wool fibers readily slip past each other and allow the fabric to be stretched, and the fabric after this treatment will remain in its extended condition.

The following is a description of my method in detail: The garment is drawn over a wire frame adjustable to the required lateral dimensions of the part to be treated. This is laid upon a board or table covered with a porous fabricfelt or clothwhicl1 readily perniits the passage of steam throughits meshes. A well-moistened cotton or linen cloth is laid smoothly upon the woolen fabric, and over passed, forcing the steam through the woolen fabric into the cloth beneath. 'VVhile thus heated the part is stretched to the required length with perfect ease. The dampened cloth is then removed, and the woolen fabric, still held in position, ironed dry with an iron not hot enough to scorch the woolen. If the garment is shrunk laterally as well as longitudinally, the lateral dimension should be first restored and. retained in that position by the frame while stretching in the other direction. It is observed that in this way both sides of the garment treated are stretched and ironed at once and in less time than in the ordinary lau n derin g.

In carrying out my invention upon a large scale I place the fabrics upon suitable adjustable stretching-frames and expose them to the action of steam of a sufficiently high temperature to soften the fibers above described, and after stretching them to the required dimensions I remove the fabrics from the steam and allow them to dry, oriron them boiling-point of water,at the same time stretclr' this a hi ghly-heated sin oothing-iron is briskly.

till dry with an iron that will not scorch the woolen fiber if a smooth or silky surface is desired.

Having thus fully described my invention, 5 I claim as new and desire to secureby Letters Patent-- 1. The method of restoring fulied woolen fabrics to their original dimensions, which consists in stretching the fabric while sub- IO jected to moist heat at a temperature of about 212 Fahrenheit, substantially as specified.

2. Theherein-described method of restoring shrunken Woolen fabric, which consists in first exposing the fabric to the action of steam to I 5 soften the fibers, then stretching the steamed fabric to the desired extent while it is in a moist and heated condition, and finally drying the steamed and stretched fabric, substantially as set forth.

3. The herein-describedmethod of restoring shrunken Woolen fabric, which consists in first forcing steam through the fabric, then stretching the steamed fabric to the desired extent while it is in a moist and heated condition, and then subjecting the stretched and steamed fabric-to a hot ironing to dry it, substantially as set forth.

REUBEN O. RUTHERFORD.

WVitnesses: 1

(Jose. M. HOPKINS, C. SEDGWICK. 

